Well another chapter closes, we have both finished up at work, its a strange feeling to be un-employed... But also quite a nice one, when Monday roles around it might be a different story.
Below is an outline of our itinerary for the next 2 months..
PART 1:
10-18 Sept
Lima
We arrive in Lima at 10 pm and will just hang out and see the city for 2 nights, we then board a plane on the 12th to head inland to the Amazon River to a city you can only access by boat or plane. There is no roads this far into the jungle. We stay the night in Iquitos and then get picked up and taken 3 hrs(80 miles) up river to Muyuna Lodge. We then spend 5 days with no power, phones, computers, TV... BLISS!
We will be spending our time looking at monkeys, sloths, snakes, spiders and other weird and wonderful creatures... (ick about the snakes). We will go looking for pink dolphins, go caiman spotting and pirhana fishing. We get taken back on the 17th to civilisation again and fly back to Lima for another couple of days sight seeing before our tour starts...
PART 2:

19-20 Sept Lima
Day
1 is simply to relax and see some of the sights. Lima was
founded by the Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535, after he
eradicated the Incas and made the city his capital. Lima has many fine
colonial buildings and some of the best museums in South America
including the Gold Museum, Museum of the Inquisition and the Catacombs
below the San Francisco Church. Peru’s capital has heaps to offer and
many of the sights, including the city’s two main squares the Plaza de
Armas and Plaza San Martin, are within easy walking distance.
21 -22 Sept Paracas - Nazca
After a couple of days in Lima, a short drive along the Pacific coast brings us to Paracas where upon arrival we will have the option to go by speedboat to explore the Ballestas Islands, passing the unusual ‘Candelabra’, a giant design carved into a desert hill, along the way. On and around these celebrated islands you’ll see thousands of sea lions plus many varieties of aquatic birds. Continuing on, we stopover at Huacachina, a desert oasis surrounded by massive sand-dunes. An overnight excursion into the desert here sleeping under the stars this also incorporates the chance to take an awesome ride in dune-buggies or, for the even more courageous, sand boarding down the dunes is an unreal way to spend the afternoon and night, a good time for a Pisco Sour party!
Travelling further inland, we reach
Nazca, famous for the strange parallel lines and geometrical figures
etched into the desert floor. Here you can take a flight in a light
aircraft to see the ‘monkey’, ‘hummingbird’, ‘condor’, ‘spider’ and
even what appears to be a spaceman. There are many more designs to be
seen on this 30 minute flight but to this day, no-one really knows why
they are there! After a short drive we’ll stop at the bizarre
Chauchilla Cemetery where you can ancient mummies that still have skin
and hair intact after thousands of years.
23-25 Sept Puerto Inca - Arequipa
Heading back along the coast our journey takes us to Puerto Inca, the Inca's original fishing port, which was only re-discovered in the 1950’s. Tonight we camp by the beach just down from the actual ruins.
Travelling back into the foothills of the Andes we reach the city of Arequipa, located 2,380 metres above sea level and dominated by the conical snow-capped El Misti Volcano. Here the attractions include the Plaza de Armas, one of South America’s most charming main squares and the Santa Catalina Convent, which is like a walled colonial town dating back more than 400 years. Shrouded with mystery, the convent’s 450 nuns lived in complete seclusion until 1970.
From Arequipa you have the option to
visit the Colca Canyon, which is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon,
making it the world’s second deepest. From the lookout point at Cruz
del Condor you can see the river flowing 1,200 metres below and you’ll
have a very good chance of seeing condors as they soar out of the
canyon on the hot thermal currents. Our base for visiting the canyon is
the town of Chivay where we’ll also have time to soak in the nearby hot
thermal pools.
26-28 Sep Cuzco
It
gradually becomes greener as we get closer to the former Inca capital
of Cuzco, which means ‘navel of the earth’ in the Inca language of
Quechua. This enchanting city has a mostly indigenous population of
around 275,000 and is centred around the Plaza de Armas, which is
dominated by the Cathedral and La Compañia de Jesus Church. Nowadays
Cuzco is also legendary for its party atmosphere and brilliant
nightlife and is jam-packed with arcades housing many fine restaurants,
bars and shops. For people wanting the challenge of the 4 day Inca
Trail trek there will be a briefing in which your local guide will chat
about the arrangements for the next few days.
We have a full day trip through the Sacred Valley of the Incas and
if you’ve purchased your full Cuzco visitor’s ticket previously then
you’ll be able to visit Sacsayhuaman ruins with its huge stonework as
well as the Pisac ruins perched on a hill high in the mountains and the
famous Indian market of the same name, in the valley below. This is a great place to buy textiles, pottery and jewellery,
not to mention the delicious empanadas (pasties) at the famous bakery.
After spending time at both, we move down the valley to the temple
fortress of Ollantaytambo, with its enormous terraces climbing up the
hillside. If you are trekking
the Inca Trail you will spend the night here with a local family in
preparation for the next four days.
29 Sept - 1 Oct Inca Trail
On the Inca Trail you will cross spectacular passes and visit more Inca ruins en-route to the Lost City of the Incas, Machu Picchu. A local guide will lead this expedition and there will be cooks and porters to carry the main equipment, leaving you with just a small daypack.
The trek begins after a short bus journey and the first day is a relatively easy 4½ hour 13km walk which will get you limbered up for the highest pass at Warmiwañusca (4,200m) which you will reach before lunchtime on Day 2 (and which translates to “Dead Woman’s Pass”!). During Day 2 you will cover approximately 9km in about 5-7 hours and after the high pass it’s all down hill as the trail winds its way along old Inca stairs to our campsite.
On Day 3 we pass the ruins of Runkurakay, Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca, walking approximately 15km in 7 hours.
The last morning, after an overnight stop at Wiñay-Wayna, you will rise early for the final walk to Machu Picchu and greet daybreak over the famous “Sun Gate”. There will then be time to explore on your own or simply take in the magnificence of the place before your guided tour. The ruins were only discovered by the outside world in 1911, when American explorer Hiram Bingham found them while looking for another “lost city” called Vilcabamba. Due to their isolation many of the buildings are still quite intact and you can’t help but admire Huayna Picchu (“Young Mountain”), which towers above the ruins. It is a hard climb to the top of the mountain (it takes about 50 minutes) but you are rewarded with spectacular views over the whole site. After spending most of the day at Machu Picchu you have the chance to soak your tired muscles in the hot springs at Aguas Calientes or meander through the markets before returning to Cuzco by train.
2 - 3 Oct Cuzco
Making the most of your last free time in Cuzco you can explore its amazing churches, colonial buildings and picturesque streets, most of which have Inca walls, arches and doorways. Leaving Cuzco, we drive along roads bordered by herds of llamas, alpacas and vicuñas before reaching the Altiplano (high plain). Our journey takes us past hot mineral pools, snow-capped mountains, through villages where the Indians sell food, fur hats and alpaca sweaters. And over the La Raya Pass at 4,321 metres before arriving at the Sillustani ruins. Here you will have the option to visit these ancient burial towers. Our final destination for today is Puno on the edge of Lake Titicaca. There is an opportunity to try some of the fresh fish from the lake in one of the restaurants in Puno tonight.
4 - 6 October Puno
After a night in Puno, on the shores of lake Titicaca which at 3,855 metres, is the highest navigable lake in the world. From here we take an excursion to the islands of Amantaní and Taquile. On Amantaní we arrange homestay accommodation with the native Quechua Indian families and you will have the chance to eat with the family, perhaps enjoy a party and dancing and maybe play soccer with the local children! The next morning you’ll visit Taquile Island where the people live in simple adobe huts and the men knit colourful hats. You will also visit the floating reed islands in the Bay of Puno, to see the Uros Indians’ way of life and ride in a traditional reed boat. Continuing back to Puno, you’ll arrive in time to visit the colourful markets.
7 - 8 Oct La Paz (Bolivia)
We drive around Lake Titicaca to the border town of Desaguadero where we can change money before crossing into Bolivia. Our first stop in Bolivia is at the pre-Inca ruins of Tiahuancho, a fascinating site dating back 2,000 years. Driving on through the scenic countryside we pass adobe villages before reaching a highway which winds its way down the canyon into La Paz, the highest capital city in the world at 3,636 metres.
La Paz is built in the basin of a spectacular ancient crater caused by a meteorite, with the snow-capped Mount Illimani in the background. The city has colourful Indian street markets including the ‘witches market’ where women in flared skirts sell, amongst other things, dead cats and llama foetuses which are placed under new buildings to keep evil spirits away. The main square, Plaza Murillo, is where many years ago a president of the republic was lynched from a lamppost. La Paz is one of the best places to see a traditional peña show of Andean music and dance where local musicians play their time-honoured instruments such as zampoñas (pipes) and charangos (ukulele).
We can check out the Moon Valley with its strange rock formations shaped by the weather or take in the incredible views from Mount Chacaltaya and the world's highest ski resort at 5,221metres. Another option is to go to Coroico, the gateway to the Bolivian jungle region and a great place to see sub-tropical vegetation and plants. En-route you will cross a 5,000 metre high pass before descending to 1,300 metres on narrow mountain roads bordered by sheer drops. The excursion to Coroico can also be done by mountain bike, as it is downhill nearly all the way and very exhilarating, but not for the fainthearted!
9 - 14 Oct Free camping - Sucre – Potosi
From La Paz we travel across the Altiplano on our way to Sucre where we spend a couple of nights. This is the official capital of Bolivia even though the governing of the country actually takes place in La Paz. Sucre is a small attractive city where, by law, all the buildings are painted white. Our next stop is Potosí (4,070 metres), the highest city of its size on earth with a population of 110,000. The city was established in 1545 soon after the discovery of a rich vein of silver in a nearby hill, the Cerro Rico (or “rich hill”). Silver from Potosí underwrote the Spanish economy, particularly the monarchy's extravagance, for over two centuries. Millions of Indians, and later, African slaves, worked in the mines where conditions were so appalling and dangerous that miners died in astronomical numbers, either in accidents or from silicosis pneumonia. You have the chance to visit one of the mines where you can see first hand how rough the working conditions were and still are!
15 - 16 Oct Uyuni
Travelling on we head to the desolate town of Uyuni in the south of Bolivia, to visit what is claimed to be the largest salt flat in the world, the brilliant white vast Salar de Uyuni. There is an opportunity to take an excursion onto the salar by 4x4 stopping of at places such as Fish Island where there are great views of the surrounding lake and giant cacti provide perfect photo opportunities. The fantastic contrast of the brilliant blue sky and the pure white of the salt flats will take your breath away.
17 - 19 Oct Free camping (Argentina) - Humahuaca – Salta
Winding our way along the dusty roads of Bolivia, which are some of the worst in South America, we head towards the Argentine border free camping enroute amidst the vividly coloured rock formations and giant cacti. We pass through Tupiza and Villazon before crossing into Northern Argentina where you will be amazed by the arid beauty of the Humahuaca Canyon. Next stop is the striking city of Salta in the Lerma Valley, established in 1582. Salta has many old colonial buildings, a cathedral with ancient statues of Cristo del Milagro (Miracle of Christ) and the Virgin Mary, which were brought over from Spain in 1592. A variety of excursions await you here including rafting, rappelling and many more.
20 - 22 Oct Cafayate
Just outside of Salta, the rugged landscape gives way to lush farmlands where you may catch a glimpse of traditional subsistence farmers at work. Stunning multi-coloured sedimentary rock formations offer beautiful photo opportunities near Cafayate. For an adrenaline rush you can hire mountain bikes for a couple of hours of thrilling descents or take a quad bike tour to explore less challenging terrain. For a more peaceful excursion you can stretch your legs on a trek, taking in beautiful local flora and fauna, as well as an impressive series of cascadas (waterfalls). Next we free camp on the way to Cordoba.
23 - 25 Oct Córdoba
Córdoba is a busy modern industrial city near the geographical centre of Argentina in the foothills of the Sierras Chicas Mountains. Established in 1573, Córdoba boasts the country’s oldest university and a young, dynamic student population. During the day you can visit an array of richly decorated churches, including Argentina’s oldest cathedral and the Manzana Jesuitica (Jesuit Block) which has been declared a Unesco World Heritage site.
26 - 27 Oct Mendoza
Leaving Cordoba we’ll travelling on to Mendoza, past the vast vineyards of Argentina’s wine producing heartland. Mendoza is the location where General José de San Martín organised the army with which he liberated Chile and Peru from Spanish rule in 1818. Unfortunately, few historic buildings remain after an earthquake devastated the city in 1861. However, the city was rebuilt with broader tree-lined streets and beautiful large green plazas, irrigated by a network of 500km of water channels, fuelling Mendoza’s reputation as an oasis of the region. There are great photo opportunities from the top of the hill “Cerro de la Gloria” at Parque San Martín, where you can also visit the local zoo. Beyond the city limits you’ll have the chance to get wet and wild on a white water rafting excursion, or try out your rope skills on a rappelling option. For a more chilled experience you could hire bikes and take the ‘Ruta de los Vinos’ (wine route), visiting ancient cellars and tasting excellent local wines at your leisure.
28 - 29 Oct Santiago (Chile)
On our final travelling day we enter the Chilean heartlands and head towards the capital, Santiago. Pedro de Valdivia established Santiago in 1541 but, except Santa Lucia Hill where the original fortress was constructed, not much remains of its original glory. The hill offers good views of the city below, but for even better photo opportunities, take a funicular railway to the top of San Cristobal where the Statue of the Virgin overlooks the capital and the distant Andes. At the viewing area there are wine-tasting facilities and a couple of brilliantly located swimming pools. In the Plaza Constitucion at the Palacio de la Moneda you can see the changing of the guard or you can take an optional excursion to the port of Valparaiso and the resort of Viña del Mar. Santiago is a very clean modern city with fountains, parks and buildings.
We finish our tour on the 30th in Santiago, we then have a few nights which we have not planned yet, trying to decide on maybe a relaxing break or a wee wine tour to see some chilean wines....
29 August 2009
15 August 2009
This weekend hailed the arrival of Brendan, this time he had an actual room to stay in, not the manky futon. We decided to head down to Cornwall to see the Eden Project. We got up at some absurd hour of the morning to catch the early (read cheap) ferry. By 9am we were in line to enter the HUGE car park for the Eden Project. The Eden Project is a 10 year old bunch of bubble shaped greenhouses that were built in an old china clay pit. There are different environments in the domes, a Mediterranean one and a Rainforest one, there were heaps of cool plants and information panels, though it seemed to be a bit more aimed at educating kids.
I found this awesome plant, I really wanted to bring one home, damn NZ border rules!
After several hours of wandering around we thought we better go find somewhere to stay the night. Bens work mate had told us about a place called Fowey which was nearby. Its a little seaside town, built on a hill and lots of little twisty cobbled streets. We found a hotel/pub to stay after finding out that there was going to be a regatta week starting the next day (sometimes we have bad timing!) and then walked about the little town, we found a good pub with cheap beer and caught up with Brendan about his time in the US of A until our early morning caught up with us and we agreed it was time to hit the hay.
At 9am on Sunday morning we all rolled downstairs to a full english breakfast (all the ingredients were from within 10 miles of Fowey) The boys gushed about their button mushrooms (best Ben had ever had, he even got the cooking tips from the land lady) after a bit of organisation we decided to go to the Dartmoor National Park on the way home and have a wee walk (Ben and my attempt to train up for climbing Machu Pichu). We stopped near Castle Drogo (can hardly be called a castle it was only built in the 1930s!) and went for a walk down to an old bridge with the prettiest little pub beside it.
After an orange juice we decided to walk back up along the river to complete the circuit. On the way back I convinced the boys to have a REAL Devonshire Cream Tea, and everyone agreed it was pretty nice, we stopped at this old farm cottage by the road and had the best scones, jam and clotted cream ever. Then we returned Brendan to Southampton train station and caught (for the last time) the Red funnel slow ferry back to the island.. ahh the nostalgia!
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